Celebrity Apex Norwegian Fjord Cruise Blog – Day 4 – Flam
In the early morning of Day 4, the Celebrity Apex reached our destination: the majestic Norwegian fjords. Our first stop was the quaint town of Flam, where we had from 7:00 AM to 4:00 PM to explore before the ship continued deeper into the fjords.
Celebrity Apex (Flam) Day 4 Overview
- Celebrity Apex Day 4 Schedule
- Misty Morning in the Fjords
- Town of Flam
- Booking the Flam Railway Excursion
- Riding the Flam Railway with Celebrity
- Food Trucks in Flam
- Ægir BrewPub
- Back on Board Celebrity Apex
- Late Lunch at the Buffet
- Scenic Waterfall Sail-By on Celebrity Apex
- Dinner at Cosmopolitan
- Cocktails and Wake Views at Eden
- Magic Show in The Theater
- “Night of Dreams” Alice in Wonderland Show in Eden
- Disappointing Late-Night Pizza
Celebrity Apex Day 4 Schedule
Misty Morning in the Fjords
We had an excursion booked through Celebrity that didn’t leave until 9:00 AM, so even though the ship docked at 7:00, there was no need to rush.
I woke up and used the Celebrity app to open the shade on my Infinite Veranda stateroom. As it slowly rose, it revealed the stunning landscape. We were deep in the fjords, with towering cliffs rising around us, carved thousands of years ago by ancient glaciers.
The sky was dark and filled with clouds and the air was misty and wet. With cruises like that, you never know what the weather will be like, so you always have to pack appropriately. Fearing we’d have some wet days, we brought waterproof coats and shoes with us, as well as umbrellas. Turns out we didn’t need to bring our own umbrellas because Celebrity has them in each cabin for guests who need them, a really nice touch.
Town of Flam in Norway
Calling Flam a “small town” might be generous. With just 450 year-round residents, this remote village revolves around tourism. It’s not just cruise passengers either. Visitors arrive by train or in RVs as they explore the region. Flam sits at the very end of the Aurlandsfjord, the innermost section of the Sognefjord.
The town itself is compact and easy to walk through, but there isn’t much to do right in the village. A rushing river cuts through the center and flows into the fjord. Near the port, you’ll find souvenir shops, a few hotels, food stalls, and a visitor center. Most of what people come to see is outside the town. Nature is the main attraction, whether by boat, bus, bike, car, or train.
Booking the Flam Railway Excursion
The most popular activity in Flam is the Flam Railway (Flamsbana), a vintage train that climbs 800 meters over 20 kilometers from Flam to Myrdal.
Tip: Book tickets for the Flam Railway early. Celebrity opened their excursions about nine months before our cruise. Norway’s Best released theirs 120 days ahead. On the day of our excursion, only two seats were left on any departure.
You can book the Flam Railway either through Celebrity or directly through Norway’s Best.
Normally, I’m fine booking excursions independently. But this was THE thing to do in Flam, and I didn’t want to miss it. I also wasn’t sure how to get back down from the top or what the timing would be like.
That’s why I booked the “Destination Highlight: The Flam Railway” excursion through Celebrity. It was $177.99 per person for a 3.5-hour tour. The excursion didn’t open until nine months before sailing and sold out within a week.
Tip: Booking it yourself can save you a lot. A round-trip ticket on the Flam Railway costs about $60. Celebrity only reserves two train cars. The rest are for passengers who book directly.
Riding the Flam Railway with Celebrity
Even though we booked through Celebrity, the experience wasn’t much different from going on your own.
We met our guides outside the ship in a designated area that had no overhead covering. Rain was falling steadily. Most guests seemed prepared with jackets and ponchos. Some, however, looked like they hadn’t expected any bad weather at all.
The walk to the train station took five minutes. Independent travelers were walking beside us. At the station, Celebrity passengers were directed into a separate line. We were in the first two cars of the train.
The train pulled in, and we boarded. There were steep steps to get inside, so the guides assisted anyone who needed help. The seating layout included two seats across from each other, and another set with three seats facing each other.
Tip: Sit on the right side going uphill. Those rows with three seats have better views. Also, check your window. Ours was covered in raindrops, but most of the others were clear.
The ride up took 50 minutes. We passed scenic landscapes, waterfalls, and went through tunnels as we climbed the mountain. Unfortunately, the heavy fog dampened the experience, obscuring some of the majestic views I had heard about. There was narration over the speaker and informational screens to follow along.
The train stopped twice. The first was a brief wait for another train to pass. The track is single-lane, so passing points are essential. The second stop was at Kjosfossen waterfall for a five-minute photo break. During the brief stop, a Huldra, Norway’s version of a siren, performed a song to lure men into the mountains.
For the Celebrity excursion, we didn’t ride all the way to Myrdal. Instead, we got off at Vatnahalsen for a 90-minute break. Our group visited a nearby hotel where we had complimentary waffles, coffee, and tea.
While the waffles weren’t as amazing as the ones we had in Belgium two days earlier (read that blog here), they hit the spot. The waffles were softer with hints of vanilla that I topped with a sweet and tart raspberry jam. They’re also traditionally topped with sour cream, though I tried it and didn’t love the combination.
We had some time to kill at the top of the mountain before heading back, so we walked to a nearby viewing point. The views were impressive, getting to take in the steep cliffs and waterfalls all around us. From here, they had a zip line that would take you down the mountain, zipping through the scenic landscape and over the river. It was so long, you couldn’t even see the end of it.
Afterward, we returned to the train for the ride down. The stops were the same. Some people say the second visit to the waterfall is less crowded, but for us, the rain had cleared, and it was actually busier.
Overall, the Flam Railway was a bit underwhelming. On a clear day, it might have been more impressive. For me, it felt like a long time sitting and looking at the misty scenery. Next time, I’d try something more active. The zipline or a bike ride back down sounds a lot more fun.
Tip: Keep in mind who’s giving the advice. Many people rave about the Flam Railway, but those reviews are often from guests who prefer a slower-paced excursion. I’d have enjoyed something more hands-on and adventurous.
Food Trucks in Flam
After getting back to the village, we wandered a bit. The rain had stopped, and the town felt more alive with a steady flow of people walking around. It wasn’t just cruise guests anymore. There were visitors from the train and others who had driven in.
It was getting close to lunchtime, so we checked out the food options. A row of food trucks was set up along the path back to the ship. I was hoping for some local specialties, but nothing felt distinctly Norwegian. There were Mediterranean, Japanese, and burger stalls. One offered reindeer jerky and sausage, but most food stalls were generic and overpriced. A simple kebab wrap was $18.
Given the lack of unique offerings and the high prices, we decided to skip lunch in town and eat back on the ship.
Ægir BrewPub
While the food options didn’t impress, the local brewery did. Built in 2007, the Ægir BrewPub had an authentic Norwegian feel. The structure was designed to look like a traditional stave church.
The BrewPub also serves food, and since it’s one of the few sit-down restaurants in Flam, there was a long line out front. Luckily, we realized that you could skip the line and head straight inside if you just wanted drinks.
The interior matched the exterior’s charm. Driftwood furniture, a large fireplace in the center, and Norse touches like dragon heads and fur throws gave the space a warm and rustic atmosphere.
The beer selection had familiar styles like pilsners and lagers, and more adventurous brews like a smoked honey gose. Prices were reasonable. A flight of five different beers cost about $17.
Back on Board Celebrity Apex
After drinks, we strolled along the shore to snap a few more pictures of the Celebrity Apex against the fjord backdrop. It was dramatic even in overcast light. On a sunny day, I’m sure it would have been jaw-dropping.
We walked back through the port and reboarded the ship. This was our first time using Destination Gateway, Celebrity’s dedicated embarkation area on Deck 2.
Unlike older ships where you reenter through crew areas with plastic curtains, this felt purpose-built. LED lighting, digital screens showing port info, and even a drink station were all there. If you had the drink package, you could grab a soda or water before heading out, which was a nice touch.
More than just nice to look at, the area functioned really well. There were plenty of security stations and enough space to avoid long lines. Getting back on board was easy. Celebrity got this design right.
Late Lunch at the Buffet
By the time we returned, it was 3:00 PM. After having only a small waffle at the top of the mountain, we were ready for some food. Thankfully, the Oceanview Café buffet was still open until 3:30 PM, which was generous considering our 4:00 PM departure. It was a nice change from the Norwegian Viva, where the buffet closed at 2:00 PM and guests returned to find almost nothing available. (See that cruise blog here)
The buffet was busy with other hungry passengers who had the same idea. Because it was Canada Day, they had themed items like poutine and red-and-white desserts. I ended up grabbing a big plate of nachos. The fresh, hot tortilla chips were becoming my cruise weakness.
Scenic Waterfall Sail-By on Celebrity Apex
Earlier that morning, Captain Nikolaos Christodoulakis mentioned a “special surprise” at 4:45 PM and encouraged everyone to be on deck. So after lunch, we headed to Deck 15 to grab a good spot.
A lot of guests were already gathered, enjoying the sail through narrow fjords and passing small fishing villages. About 45 minutes after departure, the captain returned to the PA system. We were approaching Fysseneset Waterfall, and he would rotate the ship so everyone could get a view.
As the Apex got closer, I could appreciate the true scale of the waterfall. It towered over the ship, which itself was 15 stories tall. The waterfall carved through cliffs covered in moss and greenery. The ship slowly spun in place, giving every side a perfect view.
Guests lined the elevated jogging track, the Magic Carpet Bar, and the Sunset Bar, taking in the scenery. It highlighted how well this ship is designed for scenic cruising.
Dinner at Cosmopolitan
Dinner tonight was at Cosmopolitan, one of the four main dining rooms. The layout was similar to the others, with a few modern design tweaks.
We had made a 7:00 PM reservation before the cruise. We were seated right away at a table by the window, with beautiful fjord views in the background.
Unfortunately, the service missed the mark. Our waiter took our order, dropped off the food, and didn’t return until it was time for the next course. No interaction, no checking in.
For my appetizer, I chose the Yellow Corn Soup, one of Cosmopolitan’s exclusives. I expected a creamy, sweet corn soup, but this soup was thin and broth-based. It didn’t work for me, and I couldn’t finish it. Usually, a waiter would notice and offer a different starter, but ours didn’t.
My entree was the pan-seared aged sirloin, cooked medium rare as requested. It was fine, but the dish felt uninspired and plain.
The dessert menu featured a Chocolate Lava Cake listed as a “signature.” I was excited to try it. Sadly, it was tiny, barely larger than a shot glass, and cold. It wasn’t awful, but nowhere near as good as Carnival’s famous Melting Chocolate Cake (see the recipe here).
Dinner was done in 45 minutes. It was the first meal on this cruise that felt like a letdown. The service and food just didn’t measure up. Everyone has an off night, and tonight was Cosmopolitan’s.
Cocktails and Wake Views at Eden
Because dinner was so quick, we had time to kill before the evening’s show. We headed to Eden to relax and enjoy the view with a cocktail.
We found a spot on the ramp between Decks 4 and 5 toward the back of Eden, where a server greeted us right away. We ordered two of the venue’s signature cocktails. The Forbidden was a drink with vodka, lemon juice, simple syrup, and apple butter, served in a hollowed-out glass apple. The Velt was made with mezcal and verdita, a green herb blend made with cilantro and mint. It came served in a wooden box that released a puff of smoke when opened.
The presentation was fun, but the cocktails didn’t taste like well-balanced creations. That issue seemed to apply to most of Eden’s drink menu throughout the sailing.
Tip: 80% of Eden’s cocktails are priced above the Premium Drink Package limit. Even with the highest-tier package, we still had to pay $3 per drink; frankly, none were worth the extra cost.
Although the drinks underwhelmed, the view did not. Watching the ship glide through the fjords while relaxing in Eden was incredibly peaceful. Live music played in the background from a duo performing near the center of the bar. Unfortunately, the music didn’t add much. It felt more like background noise than entertainment. Celebrity’s live music offerings throughout the cruise felt a step below what we’ve experienced on other ships.
Magic Show in The Theater
For our evening entertainment, we went to the main theater to see magician Adam Heppenstall. The show started at 9:30 PM. We arrived 15 minutes early and easily found seats, although the room filled up quickly right before the lights went down.
After sitting through a painfully dull magic act on Norwegian Viva last year, I came in with low expectations. But Adam immediately stood out with his charisma and energy. Most of his tricks used cards and were filmed up close so they could be projected on the big screen for everyone to see.
It was entertaining and well-paced, though I still think magic shows on cruise ships could benefit from a few large-scale illusions. In a venue that holds over 700 guests, a series of card tricks doesn’t land quite as strongly as a more theatrical performance might.
“Night of Dreams” Alice in Wonderland Show in Eden
After the show ended, we made our way back to Eden for the 10:30 PM performance titled Night of Dreams, a production by the Eden cast themed around Alice in Wonderland.
We arrived straight from The Theater, so we didn’t have a chance to get good seats. In all honesty, I’m not sure it would have mattered. Even if we had arrived 30 minutes early, the space would not have been ideal for watching a show.
Eden is an amazing bar and lounge space, but it’s a poor setup for performance art. There are only about 30 to 40 good seats with a clear view. The rest are obstructed or too far off to see the main action. People were walking around, chatting, and going to the bar while performers were doing aerial spins and balancing acts. It completely disrupted the mood.
The bright sunlight pouring through the massive windows made things worse. Even though it was 10:30 PM, the sun was still shining brightly. It washed out the visuals and distracted from the show. On Royal Caribbean’s similar venue, Two70 on their Quantum Class ships, they use curtains to darken the space. Celebrity really should consider that here.
As for the show itself, it was a bit cheesy. The acrobats were very talented. The problem is, if you see one show, they’re doing similar stunts at the next show, but to different music. The show had a rough plot of Alice in Wonderland and the Queen of Hearts, but it felt half-thought out. They brought people up throughout the show to participate in the games, probably hoping to get the audience more excited, but it didn’t do much.
Overall, I really hated Eden as a performance space, although I loved it as a bar and music venue. In addition, the shows feel very lackluster compared to some other cruise lines’ entertainment.
At the same time, the entertainment staff was hosting the Shine the Night party in the Grand Plaza. The program said to wear your “shiniest metallic outfit” The party seemed much less attended than others, possibly because Celebrity didn’t email us ahead of time to say there would be a “shinny” party and people didn’t the correct attire. I don’t know why cruise lines can’t give guests notice of what parties to expect on their cruises.
Late-Night Pizza (and a Bit of a Letdown)
By the time we left Eden, it was 11:15 PM. But with the sun still out, I didn’t feel tired. The extended daylight threw off my sense of time more than I expected. Even more so than on my Alaska cruise, likely because Apex has windows everywhere, constantly reminding you that it’s still bright outside.
Still hungry after a disappointing dinner, we made our way to the Oceanview Café to check out their late-night offerings. According to the daily schedule, the buffet was open for snacks from 10:00 PM to 1:00 AM.
Unfortunately, it was a letdown. Only one small corner of the buffet was open, offering a limited selection of sandwiches. I tried the egg salad option, which was almost laughably bad. It was simply a white bread roll with a tiny piece of egg, a scrap of lettuce, and a quarter slice of tomato. It felt like an afterthought, the kind of food you’d expect on a cheap flight.
There was one more option, the pizza station all the way at the back of the buffet. You have to walk through the dark, closed buffet area to get there, which makes it feel oddly disconnected from the rest of the buffet.
The two chefs working the pizza counter were trying to keep up, but the process was slow. They only put new pies in the oven once the old ones ran out. So if a group of people arrived, all the slices would be gone, and everyone would have to wait five to ten minutes for more to bake. The capacity just wasn’t enough.
As for the pizza itself? It was disappointing. Compared to cheaper conveyor-style pizza ovens like Domino’s or Pizza Hut, this restaurant had a dedicated pizza oven, but the crust lacked any char and or body; the slices were completely limp. The dough itself was almost flavorless, and the cheese and sauce were bland.
Overall, it was way below what I came to expect from food on Celebrity. It’d put it up there with some of the worst pizza I’ve had on a cruise ship. Was it edible? 100%. Did I have at least 10 – 15 slices during my cruise? Completely. But Carnival’s pizza station at Pizza del Capitano blows this out of the water in quality, taste, and speed. (Note: during late night, Carnival has switched to a “Detroit-style” sheet pan pizza that is noticeably worse and resembles what you’d get in elementary school.)
After the meal, I headed back to the cabin to turn in. We had an early start the next day in Geiranger, where we planned to do a lot of hiking.
Follow Along on our 7-Day Norwegian Fjord Cruise
Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 1 – Southampton
Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 2 – Bruges
Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 3 – Sea Day
Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 4 – Flam
Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 5 – Geiranger (coming soon
Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 6 – Bergen (coming soon
Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 7 – Sea Day (coming soon
5 Hits and Misses on Celebrity Apex (coming soon
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