Celebrity Apex Norwegian Fjord Cruise Blog – Day 5 – Geiranger

Day 5 of our 7-day Norwegian Fjords cruise brought us to the breathtaking village of Geiranger, Norway. From 8 AM to 4 PM, we had the chance to explore some of the most stunning scenery on the itinerary before returning to the Celebrity Apex for an evening of food, entertainment, and relaxation.

I woke at 7:00 AM and, with a tap on my phone, raised the curtain of our Infinity Balcony. The view filled the room with towering cliffs covered in lush greenery and glowing in the morning sun. The Apex moved gracefully through calm waters toward Geiranger, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its dramatic landscapes. Larger than Flåm, which we visited yesterday, yet more remote, the town felt like a hidden treasure tucked deep within the fjord, and I was excited to explore it.

Celebrity Apex (Flam) Day 4 Overview

• Celebrity Apex Day 5 Schedule
• Breakfast at the Oceanview Cafe
• The Geiranger Seawalk
• Geiranger’s Waterfall Walk
• Hike to Vesterås Gard and Vesteråsfjellet
• Other Excursion Options
• Exploring Downtown Geiranger
• Back on Board Apex
• Seven Sisters Waterfall
• Pre-dinner Drinks at the Martini Bar
• Tuscan Restaurant for Dinner
• Tree of Life Show
• ABBA Sing Along Party at The Club
• Midnight Sun and Pizza

Celebrity Apex Day 5 Schedule

Breakfast at the Oceanview Cafe

For breakfast, we headed up to the buffet. Like other port days, it was quite busy. I loved how Celebrity laid out the food stations on the Apex. It’s similar to how Royal Caribbean does it on their newer ships, creating islands with different foods. It means there are almost no lines (except for the omelets). But while the food stations were fine, finding a seat was still a bit of a challenge. You can eventually find seats, but it’s not easy, especially on a morning when everyone is grabbing breakfast before heading out to explore the port.

Tip: If you have a drink package, you can grab cans of soda and water bottles at the bar station on the buffet’s starboard side. This makeshift bar cart allowed us to get drinks for our meal and to take with us. You could get two non-alcoholic options per person, so I grabbed a water and a Diet Coke for my upcoming adventures.

We’d been on the ship for four breakfasts, and while they were good, they were getting a bit repetitive. Almost all of the dishes were the same as they had been the other days. They had a good selection, with both traditional English breakfast foods and more American-style breakfast options, but it was starting to feel repetitive.

To be fair, the ship had a few other options, but they were very limited. The Spa Cafe, in the Solarium, had a few light options like yogurt and cereal. Eden Cafe, in the Eden space, had a breakfast as well, but it opened as we were going ashore and had limited options. One of the main dining rooms, the Cosmopolitan, opened for breakfast at 7:30 AM, but that would take too long and wouldn’t work before having to get off the ship.

The Geiranger Seawalk

Towards the end of the fjord, we came to a stop, short of making land. Up until 2013, Geiranger was a tender port for all ships. That meant you had the hassle of getting off and back on the ship in small tenders or water taxis that shuttle you back and forth. It really delays debarkation and embarkation and eats into your time in the destination.

In 2013, Geiranger installed the SeaWalk, which is essentially a floating pier, bringing a solid, walkable surface to the ship. I watched the SeaWalk slowly extend and open up, creating a metal walkway from the shore to the ship. The SeaWalk can only accommodate one ship, so the other smaller ship there with us that day still had to tender. It was a really smart invention, and I wish more ports could use it rather than tenders.

We headed down to Deck 2 and debarked the ship through Destination Gateway. The daily schedule said we had to be back on board at 4 PM, which was inconsistent with what the app said previously (3:30). It was a bit frustrating that they didn’t have signs as you left with the time to be back. It was showing on a big screen in Destination Gateway, but you don’t see the screen as you’re leaving the ship. Several people I talked to during the cruise mentioned that the all-aboard time was confusing in several ports.

The SeaWalk was surprisingly sturdy; you felt no movement or give. I would have assumed it was a permanent dock if I hadn’t seen it float out myself.

Geiranger’s Waterfall Walk

We started our day in Geiranger with their famous Waterfall Walk. This free attraction is a short 10-minute walk from the ship, the path following along the water and through a selection of small shops. At this point, it was still early; most shops weren’t open yet, and few people were on the street. I could appreciate the crisp, fresh air and quietness as we walked over.

Waterfall Walk is an attraction made of scaffolding-type steps along the Storfossen Waterfall, taking you just feet away from the mighty waters. The way is 327 steps with several different platforms you can stop on for a rest or a photo. You can either start at the bottom from the Geiranger town center or the top at the Norwegian Fjord Center.

Tip: Go to the Waterfall Walk as your first stop if you can. We almost had the whole place to ourselves, which made for great pictures and a better opportunity to enjoy it. We also visited later in the day, which was much more crowded.

You could hear the water churning and falling next to you as you walked up the stairs. It was around 70 degrees, and the mist from the waterfall already felt nice and cooling. On some platforms, you could venture even closer to feel the full force of the waterfalls.

I really enjoyed the Waterfall Walk and was shocked that it was totally free; just some free nature to enjoy.

The steps were solid and easy to get up, but there were quite a few of them. It’s basically the equivalent of walking up 15 or 20 floors in a building, so it is exercise for sure.

At the top, we reached the Norwegian Fjord Center. The center costs around $15, so we decided to forgo it. I took the opportunity to use the restroom before we started hiking. Like many places in Europe, there is a cost to use the public restroom. It was around $2, and the turnstile took credit card or tap to pay (like Apple Pay).

Tip: We went the entire cruise without taking out any local currency. All vendors took card / tap-to-pay; most of the time, they preferred them. Even the restrooms were easy to tap to pay to use. (Credit cards are so widely accepted here because their governments limit the fees charged to vendors on a credit card. It’s 0.3% in the EU compared to 2% in the US.)

Hike to Vesterås Gard and Vesteråsfjellet

For this port, we decided not to do an official excursion but instead take a hiking adventure on our own. Geiranger has quite a few trails that you can visit for amazing views of the fjord or a waterfall. You can purchase a map at the Visitor Center or download the PDF here.

The Hike Up

The first part of the hike was a steep climb from the Fjord Center up to the Vesterås Gard farm. We started with pep in our step, with the fresh air and beautiful sun energizing us. The trails were well-marked and clean. It was a 2-kilometer hike, which wasn’t bad, but the elevation change was 820 feet (just short of the height of the Empire State Building or Eiffel Tower). At one point, you saw nothing but the daunting view of stone steps climbing higher and higher with no end in sight.

It was a cooler day, so we had long sleeves and pants on, which proved to be a mistake. We quickly overheated as we climbed higher and higher. Thankfully, we thought to bring water with us; we would have been in trouble if we hadn’t.

At this point in the day, it was pretty quiet, with only a handful of people on the trail with us. They blew past us, deflating my ego as I struggled to climb the stairs. After about 20 minutes of walking, we saw a sign indicating we were halfway, a bittersweet point showing we were half done but still had so much more to go.

We kept ascending the steep stairs slowly but steadily. The stairs climbed through a densely wooded forest, so the walk had no views (besides all the trees).

Forty minutes after we left the Fjord Center, we finally hit the top of the trail. We were out of the trees and could now appreciate the sweeping views of the mountain top. You couldn’t see the ships or the bottom of the fjord from here, but the views of the mountains were stunning.

Most people were heading up to the farm, but we chose to head to Vesteråsfjellet, a viewpoint over the fjord, and would visit the Vesterås Gard on the way back.

Vesteråsfjellet Viewpoint

The walk to Vesteråsfjellet was much more level and even; we had already scaled the mountain, now it was just about walking closer to the fjord’s edge. This part of the walk was much more muddy. While it was beautiful and sunny, it must have rained recently. A thick mud covered the path, which we sank into as we walked.

Tip: Bring waterproof shoes for hiking in Norway. Rain is very common, and it might have rained previously even if it’s nice weather. Also, bring some kind of bags for your shoes to bring them home if they get muddy.

It took about another 20 minutes to get to the viewing point. We were the only ones there, except for a friendly herd of goats from the local farm that were munching on the leaves and plant life.

The view was absolutely stunning and worth the near exhaustion I felt at that point. Looking out into the fjord, you could appreciate the grandeur and scale of this massive feature. Puffy clouds obscured the very top of the cliffs as waterfalls streamed down the side of the rock. It was dead silent except for the quiet rustle of leaves, and the air was fresh and clean.

We relaxed for a bit and enjoyed the views before heading on the 20-minute walk back to the Vesterås Gard farm.

Westeras Farm

The farm is also a hotel and small restaurant. A viewing deck from the back overlooks the mountain, although the view we had at Vesteråsfjellet was far superior in my opinion.

I found the farm itself a bit underwhelming. It is a stop on the Hop On and Hop Off bus and a starting point to get to the larger waterfall, so it is a popular destination, but it was probably my least favorite part of the hike.

Heading Back Down

After some time at the top, we headed back down, which took only 30 minutes. It was much busier now, with lots of tourists, surprisingly not many of them from our cruise ship. I have to say, seeing people struggle going up made me feel so much better about the accomplishment of getting up there.

Other Geiranger Excursion Options

If hiking isn’t your cup of tea, there are quite a few other excursions you can do in Geiranger, either through the cruise line or on your own. The downtown area had a visitor center that mentioned some, and all along the walkway were different tour providers in case you didn’t book anything ahead of time.

Some of the most popular seemed to the RIB boat tour of the fjord, renting a mini-electric car with pre-determined routes, or the Hop On / Hop Off Bus.

Popular Excursions Trips in Geiranger, Norway

Exploring Downtown Geiranger

We arrived back in town to find it much busier and filled with people. While we could have walked directly back to the town center from the farm, we decided to go back and walk down the Waterfall Walk. The mist from the waterfalls felt so refreshing and helped cool us down from our hike.

We stopped at Fjordnær, a chocolate shop serving handmade Norwegian chocolates. The building was incredibly small, not much bigger than a cruise ship cabin. The line was extensive, not because people were getting chocolate, but because they were getting their gourmet coffees here, which take longer.

We also tried getting some food, as it was lunchtime and we were exhausted from our long walk. Unfortunately, that proved a challenge. We wanted to go to Berserk Bar & Grill, but they had a long wait. I’m not sure how long because the host simply said, “I don’t know, it’ll be a while,” and made a face indicating it was not the best choice.

We went to another food stand to try a local delicacy, fish balls, but they had a 20-minute wait. It was clear it was a crowded day in port.

The city had a variety of shops to buy souvenirs in as well. Most shops had the same items and nearly the same price point, but it was nice to see the options. They love their trolls in Norway, and there was no shortage of them.

Back on Board Apex

We walked back to the ship around 2:00, easily walking back on the SeaWalk and through the security at Destination Gateway. We quickly ran to the Oceanview Cafe for a small bite before it closed at 2:30. Today was a Tex-Mex theme, with tacos, fajitas, and nachos. As usual, the buffet was busy as people were back on board and looking for something to eat. If it was after 2:30, people could still go to the Mast Grill for a burger or hot dog up until 5 PM.

Seven Sisters Waterfall

The ship left promptly at 4 PM, and Captain Nikolaos Christodoulakis came on the speaker and said everyone should be on deck at 4:45. We would be passing the Seven Sisters Waterfalls, the most photographed waterfall in Norway. Because of the depth of the water by the falls, we could not do a 360 there, so the Captain told everyone to find a spot on the starboard side.

The decks were buzzing with activity. Everyone was outside enjoying the beautiful weather and stunning views. Staff was on deck, offering people blankets and hot chocolate. Normally, I am sure that would be popular, but because it was in the 70s this day, people were flocking to the Sunset Bar and bar carts on the upper decks instead.

From the deck, we had a front-row seat to one of Norway’s most famous sights. Each of the narrow streams tumbled down the sheer rock face in perfect formation, their mist catching the sunlight and creating a soft haze against the dramatic cliffside. It was not as powerful as the waterfalls we walked by previously, or something like Niagara Falls, but the beauty was unmistakable.

Once we passed the waterfalls, the fjord opened into a sweeping panorama of blue-green water framed by rugged mountain peaks. The scene felt almost endless, with layer upon layer of valleys fading into the distance under a bright Norwegian sky. At an intersection of waterways, the Captain could do a 360, offering everyone a panoramic view of the fjord. People lined up along the jogging track, in the Magic Carpet Bar, and in other areas to enjoy it. It shows how well the Apex does for these kinds of itineraries with majestic views.

Pre-dinner Drinks at the Martini Bar

We headed to the Martini Bar for pre-dinner drinks around 6:45. It was relatively quiet, and we could grab one of the few seats right at the bar. Unfortunately, it was the right-hand side, with awkwardly short seats that you struggle to get in and out of.

The Grand Plaza was bathed in blue light as a “DJ” played their “Chill and Soul” music. Basically, she sat in the corner and hit play on a playlist. Their live music program was one of the most disappointing aspects of this sailing. It was not up to par with other cruise lines, and having a DJ playing a static playlist in the main socialization space of the ship was almost comical.

I got a dirty martini, which I had actually never had before. I was never a big fan of olives, but my Mediterranean cruise last year opened my eyes to the fact that I enjoy “good” olives. I usually would never pay for a dirty martini, but I figured I would try it since I had the Premium Drink Package on this cruise. I liked it more than I thought I would.

Tuscan Restaurant for Dinner

For dinner this evening, we chose the Tuscan Restaurant. We did not have reservations, so we showed up at 7:15. There was a bit of a wait, so the hostess said to come back at 7:30 and she would seat us then. A 15-minute wait was no problem at all, and it was the longest wait we had all cruise, so I was okay with it.

We took this opportunity to enjoy some of the art on the lower levels of the ship while we waited. We were rarely down this way, so it was nice to get to appreciate how high-end the ship felt. The art was integrated so well that you might not even notice it unless you were looking for it.

Our waiter this evening did not have much personality, and we did not see him very much, a far cry from the service we had previously in the Tuscan dining room (read about that here). I started with their French Onion Soup, which I really loved on this cruise. For my entrée, I tried the Homemade Gnocchi Al Quattro Formaggi. The gnocchi were tender and tasty, but the sauce felt a little thin; I was expecting something with a bit more body, like an Alfredo or cheese sauce. For dessert, I got the apple pie again; this time, it was warm and browned on top, like it was right out of the oven.

This evening, we struck up a conversation with the table next to us. It was awkward at times because we had different waiters and were on different timings for courses, so we would be in the middle of a conversation and one table would get their appetizers, meaning you either had to stop talking or struggle to slurp down soup while talking.

Overall, the food was quite good again this evening, and the service was okay. The meal ran long, though, 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Tree of Life Show

For entertainment this evening, we wanted to see the Tree of Life Show in the main theater. Dinner ran long, so we arrived at the theater at 9:11 for the 9:30 show.

Tip: Celebrity does not take show reservations like sister cruise line Royal Caribbean, so you want to give yourself some time to get to the theater early.

Thankfully, there was plenty of seating available. From everything I had read, people complained about not finding seats in the main theater. It was not my experience at all on this sailing (Eden and The Club were totally different stories). I do not find arriving at the theater 15 to 20 minutes early to get a good seat unreasonable. While there is no bar in the theater, a bar cart is stationed at the entrance, and waiters come around and take orders before the show starts. When the show started, I would estimate the theater was only about 70% full, which was odd considering all the good things I heard about the show.

Honestly, I could not believe this show was created and performed by the same people who did the previous show (read about that here). It was elevated way beyond cheap cruise entertainment. It felt like Celebrity spent all their budget on this show.

In the middle of the round stage was a towering tree with 7,000 individual LED lights. According to the cruise director, the tree alone cost $900,000, and it was worth it. The massive set piece set the tone for the show. The tree moved and transformed throughout the performance. Sitting dead center about five rows back, it felt like the tree was growing and shrinking in front of me (in reality, it was just moving forward and back on the stage).

Even the vocal performances were better. It was the same production cast we saw the previous night, but the songs suited them much better. The Tree of Life has songs like “Here Comes the Sun,” “Kiss Me,” and “Don’t Wake Me Up” in subtle, acoustic-style performances. The musical arrangements worked well. The dancing and acrobatics were also impressive. The acrobats were different from the Eden cast but were equally impressive, performing aerial stunts and acrobatics.

The show made excellent use of the massive wrap-around LED screens (which cost $6.5 million) to provide an immersive experience. At one point, a winter scene was painted on the screen, with the tree illuminated in white LEDs, as bubbles fell from the ceiling to simulate snow.

Overall, the show was incredibly well done, and it showed that Celebrity could put on high-quality entertainment, but I am not sure why all the shows were not of this caliber. My only complaint was that the show did not have a grand finale. Instead, it kind of fizzled out, and you almost did not realize it was over except when the cast came out for their bows.

ABBA Sing Along Party at The Club

After the show ended, we headed to The Club, the two-story entertainment space on the Apex. Tonight was the ABBA Sing Along party, and I wondered how that would be. Would it be cheap, karaoke-like performances or a massive dance party?

We arrived at 10:30 PM, and the place already had a good crowd. One of the entertainment staff led the party, but it was mostly performed as a DJ set. The LED display on the wall and all the TVs around the space had graphic lyric videos, way above the quality of cheap karaoke.

The crowd loved it, filling the dance floor from wall to wall. Guests from 18 to 70 were singing along at the top of their lungs. On a sailing with Americans and Europeans of all ages, it is not easy to find something that resonates with everyone, but ABBA did the trick. They rolled out hit after hit, including “Money, Money, Money,” “Gimme! Gimme! Gimme!,” “Mamma Mia,” and “Dancing Queen.”

Those not dancing relaxed around The Club’s first and second floors. For this type of event, the space was ideal, letting non-dancers still enjoy the energy or chat with friends. While it fell short for the performance we saw the night before, this clearly was the kind of event it was built for.

The bar stayed busy as guests grabbed drinks between songs, but with at least six bartenders working, the wait was minimal. I tried an Orange Crush, made with Grey Goose Orange Vodka, Cointreau, orange juice, and Sprite, and it tasted just like orange soda.

The party was only 30 minutes, which felt short. Carnival has a similar limit, but I have never understood why. If something is working, why cut it off? Virgin Voyages’ Scarlet Lady keeps the energy going all evening, even if broken into smaller segments.

The tricky part came when the host had to shift to a disco party without losing the crowd. He wisely kicked things off with the YMCA, which kept about half the packed dance floor engaged as the music changed.

Although less crowded, The Club still had great energy at 11:15 PM. Seeing guests of all ages enjoying live music was a surprise for my first Celebrity cruise, and it proved the line could host a lively, fun night.

Midnight Sun and Pizza

It was 11:30 at that point, and after a long day, I should have been ready for bed. It was hard, though, because the sun was still out. I went onto the deck to watch the sunset, slowly dipping below the horizon. It was hard to be tired while still seeing the sky painted in reds and yellows.

So before turning in, we returned to the buffet for some late-night pizza. Late-night pizza does not have the crowd here like I have seen on Carnival, Royal Caribbean, and Virgin Voyages. About 20 people were there, eating pizza and enjoying the ocean views before turning in.

Unfortunately, the pizza proved to be incredibly underwhelming, lacking in flavor and structure. It was just so odd because Celebrity had some of the best cruise food I had ever had so far, but the pizza was way below other lines.

After pizza, I turned in for the night. We had an early start the next day in Bergen, Norway.

Follow Along on our 7-Day Norwegian Fjord Cruise

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Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 4 – Flam

Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 5 – Geiranger

Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 6 – Bergen (coming soon)

Celebrity Apex – Cruise Blog - Day 7 – Sea Day (coming soon)

5 Hits and Misses on Celebrity Apex (coming soon)

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Celebrity Apex Norwegian Fjord Cruise Blog – Day 1 – Southampton Celebrity Apex Norwegian Fjord Cruise Blog – Day 3 – Sea Day Celebrity Apex Norwegian Fjord Cruise Blog – Day 4 – Flam Celebrity Apex Norwegian Fjord Cruise Blog – Day 2 – Bruges