Virgin Voyages Valiant Lady – Cruise Blog – Day 3 – Costa Maya

November 27, 2024 Randy Young

On Day 3, the Valiant Lady docked in Costa Maya, Mexico, where we’d have eight hours before we had to head back to the ship. This evening would be the highly anticipated “Scarlet Night,” Virgin Voyages’ biggest party. Follow along on our jam-packed day!

Virgin Voyages Day 3 Overview

Virgin Voyages – Day 3 At a Glance Schedule
The Galley for Breakfast
Costa Maya Cruise Port
Mayan Chan Resort in Costa Maya
Getting Back Through Costa Maya Cruise Port
Splash of Romance Cocktail Party
Hurricane Causes a Change of Plans
Razzle Dazzle for Dinner
Scarlet Night
Pizza Place for Late-Night Munchies

Virgin Voyages – Day 3 At a Glance Schedule

The Galley for Breakfast

The ship was scheduled to dock at 9 AM. At 8:30, the port of Costa Maya was visible as Valiant Lady slowly sailed to the dock.

We returned to The Galley to grab breakfast before leaving the ship. I’d read how it gets really busy on port days, as it’s the only place to get a quick bite before leaving, so I was curious to see for myself.

The Galley was busy, probably busier than the day before, but far less busy than buffets on other cruise ships I’ve sailed. We had no problem finding a table, and the food lines were shorter than the previous day.

I opted for the Diner and Dash for a traditional breakfast this morning. Usually, this place had the longest line, and it served what most people think of for breakfast: eggs, bacon, pancakes, omelets, etc. Thankfully, the line moved quickly unless you were making a special order.

Most of the food here was premade and just waiting to be scooped onto plates, kind of going against Virgin’s whole “The Galley isn’t a buffet” argument. They were super generous with the bacon, giving me a heap of crispy, glistening bacon along with my pancakes and eggs. While the pancakes were decent, the eggs were pretty gross. I’m not sure if they were powdered eggs or had been sitting awhile, but the texture was off. It was a rare miss for Virgin in the food department.

See The Galley’s Breakfast Menu

Costa Maya Cruise Port

At around 9 AM, we saw people getting off the ship, so we decided it was time to leave. Since Virgin Voyages doesn’t make announcements, we had to rely on observing others about when we could leave (they eventually sent a notification via the app about 15 minutes after we had already left).

Tip: Most ports will require a photo ID to get back into the cruise port; make sure to bring one with you. It doesn’t have to be a passport in most ports—a driver’s license will suffice.

We began the long walk down the pier towards the cruise port. It’s one of the longer pier walks in the Caribbean, but the weather was pleasant, and the port also ran a tram if needed. Music filled the air as a musician on the dock played the harp.

Port Costa Maya has several pools, swim-up bars, shops, restaurants, and even a new surf simulator. The pools are free to use, but lounge chairs require a food or beverage purchase, which I hadn’t noticed on previous trips. The port is charming if there’s only one ship, but it’s not large enough for the crowds when there are multiple ships, which is why we planned a private excursion.

Note: Royal Caribbean recently purchased Port Costa Maya and will transform it into Perfect Day Mexico. Other cruise lines may dock there but will no longer have access to the pools, bars, and shops starting in 2027.

The port is quite locked down, and for any third-party excursions, you need to walk through the entire port to exit into the town. It’s a bit of a maze, as they want guests to stay, but by following the perimeter, we eventually made it out.

Mayan Chan Resort in Costa Maya

For today, we booked a private resort about 30 minutes from the port. I first visited here on my Harmony of the Seas cruise and loved it, so I scheduled it again for this trip. (Follow along on that cruise blog here).

Maya Chan Resort is a small, rustic beach experience. It’s an all-inclusive beach day with alcoholic drinks and lunch included, as well as equipment like kayaks, beach chairs, etc. It was $79 per adult.

Maya Chan only holds roughly 100 people, so you must book early if interested. I booked three months early and had no problems, but other people on my cruise tried two months before and couldn’t get in.

Learn more about Maya Chan here

Getting to Maya Chan

To get to Maya Chan, you meet a representative outside the port who will arrange a taxi to take you to the resort. We exited the port and headed toward the large replica of a Mayan Pyramid, where most third-party tours meet. It’s a short five-minute walk on a sidewalk; while locals are there trying to sell activities, if you tell them you’re already booked, they just say, “Have a great day.”

We reached the tent where the Maya Chan representatives were waiting for us. We quickly checked in and only had to wait a few minutes until a taxi van was ready to take the nine people waiting to Maya Chan.

The van went through Mahahual, a quaint town that now mostly houses people servicing the local tourism industry. After a few minutes on rough pavement, the taxi ventured onto dirt-paved roads. Having done this drive before, I tightened my seatbelt. The ride to Maya Chan is mostly unpaved with some potholes, making for a rough but totally safe ride. It took us 35 minutes to get there. It’s not that far, but the taxi drove carefully over the rough roads.

The area gets increasingly remote, with abandoned buildings that were damaged by hurricanes years ago and lots of unmanicured jungle. The first time I went here, I was a bit apprehensive about where we were going, but this time, I could take in the gorgeous scenery as we followed the shoreline.

Welcome to Maya Chan

The van pulled up to an unassuming entrance lined with lush green vegetation and trees. A small sign welcomed today’s ships to the resort. We got there at 10:30 AM.

Maya Chan isn’t like a mass-market beach resort with manicured sand and multi-story buildings. Instead, it’s much more natural, feeling like you’re on a season of Survivor.

A short sand path leads its way to the large natural hut. An aroma of sweet smoke filled the area as the team prepared the different meats we’d eat later that day.

We were welcomed by David, the owner of the facility, who greeted the group and checked us in. Each party at Maya Chan gets their own area and chairs—either a full cabana or chairs with a table and umbrella. You’re not on top of anyone else and you get lots of privacy.

David asked someone to show us to our area. We got a cabana with chairs and daybeds, and since they had a record that I’d been there before, they had a plaque welcoming me back, which was a nice touch. Immediately, someone brought over fresh chips and salsa and a welcome Caribbean punch. On our table, a small menu had all the different beverages available.

The canopy above provided good shade so I could relax and read a book while listening to the ocean. The staff kept coming back to check on us and bring us more chips, salsa, and drinks. I enjoyed their daiquiris which were made with real fruit; I think I tried all of the flavors.

It was a perfect day, with just a few clouds in the sky and a moderate temperature of 85 degrees. Still, I was getting warm, so we headed into the water for a bit.

Maya Chan provides kayaks and paddleboards for people who want to try them, but I chose a floating chair so I could relax in the water. The ocean here isn’t the aqua blue you expect in the Caribbean—it’s darker and not as see-through because of the location, but it’s pleasantly warm. The bottom feels a bit slimy, but it’s not much different from what I’m used to at beaches in the Northeast, just warmer.

While we were relaxing in the water, a waiter kept walking into the water to offer people more drinks.

Lunch at Maya Chan

Around 12:30, we walked over to the main hut for lunch. I had been waiting for this lunch since my last visit here two years ago. They were the best tacos I’d ever had in my life, and I hoped they lived up to my memory. Luckily, I saw the same chef, Anna, at the station making the food, so I had high hopes.

They had a selection of meats: steak, pork, chicken, and fish. All of them are good, and I got one of each (plus seconds of the chicken, fish, and beef). The chicken is my favorite—it uses a mix of Mayan spices and is how the locals prefer their tacos. It blew my mind last time, and this time was the same. I’ve tried to replicate this dish at home but with no success. I mentioned that to the owner’s wife, who said the secret is the ground annatto seed and sour orange for the acid (she suggested grapefruit juice might be a good substitute at home). The fish was my second favorite—it was so fresh, and they made a fantastic garlic butter to serve it with.

After overindulging on the amazing tacos, I headed back to the cabana to relax and work on my book. It was a perfect day for just mind-numbing relaxation. While the resort has high-speed internet, I tried to stay off it as much as possible to relax.

Leaving Maya Chan

Around 1:30, the staff came around and checked when we wanted to leave. They knew when our ship was departing, and we could leave on the half-hour until 4:30 PM. We picked the 3 PM time so we had time to look around the port before getting onto the ship.

At 2:50, they told us our van would be here soon, and we packed our stuff and headed back on the bumpy ride home. It took the same amount of time—35 minutes.

Overall, it was another amazing day at Maya Chan. If you want a day of perfect relaxation in a rustic atmosphere, I highly recommend it. All the staff were incredibly friendly, the food was outstanding, and the experience was relaxing.

Getting Back Through Costa Maya Cruise Port

The taxi took us into the cruise port, past security, and then we walked through the maze of passageways again. At this point, three other ships had joined the Valiant Lady, and it was incredibly crowded. The walkways and paths aren’t big enough for the crowds they bring in. The stores weren’t overly packed but were still busier than I liked. I don’t know how Royal Caribbean plans to address this space issue when converting it to Perfect Day Mexico.

After checking out the goods in a few shops, we headed back to Valiant Lady. Security was a breeze, and we were back on the ship and in our cabin within a few minutes.

Splash of Romance Cocktail Party

At 5:30, I attended a cocktail party for people who booked “Splash of Romance.” This is the package I booked to get priority boarding on the ship (a “sacrifice” I make for the readers so I can get pictures of the spaces without having to worry about people in them).

Virgin Voyages loves their cocktail parties. The previous night, they hosted the “Blue Extra” cocktail party, part of their mid-level loyalty program. Since I was status-matched from my other cruise lines, I was able to attend that as well, even though it was my first Virgin Voyages cruise.

The Splash of Romance party was held at “The Crow’s Nest,” a hidden gem on Deck 17. To get there, you walk to the Athletic Club and then take the stairs up. It’s an area you might not notice unless you know where to look.

During the day, The Crow’s Nest is used for dance classes, yoga, or sunbathing, and at night, it transforms into a cocktail party venue. To reach it, you pass Virgin’s elevated jogging track, which offers uninterrupted space for running or walking, with great views of the ship and ocean.

We walked up to The Crow’s Nest and checked in with the Entertainment Staff. As we entered, a bartender handed us a glass of champagne. The party was already in full swing—we arrived around 5:45 PM. Ohana Duo, the performers from the previous night, were playing with a Caribbean flair, which suited the panoramic views beautifully. Their mash-up of “Stand By Me” and “All About That Bass” was unexpected but enjoyable.

The setup felt more like a performance than a social event. With the loud music and limited seating, most people sat facing the performers, making conversation difficult. There weren’t any cocktail tables, so it wasn’t easy to socialize or even hold a drink comfortably.

Initially, it was unclear whether we could have multiple drinks, so most people stuck to one glass. Eventually, they offered more champagne and came around with sangria. Virgin Voyages is generally generous with the free drinks, but the servers seemed a bit stretched this time and not circulating often.

Overall, it was a wonderful experience to watch the sunset while enjoying live music and a glass of bubbly.

Hurricane Causes a Change of Plans

After the party, I went to get ready for dinner. While there, the captain came on the loudspeakers, the first time I’d heard an announcement all sailing. He told us Tropical Storm Rafael had become a hurricane and could create potential issues. I knew it was coming from weather reports I saw earlier, but I didn’t expect to feel so completely removed from it. Most of the ship was blissfully unaware of the storm, even though everyone had internet. It just wasn’t a concern for many.

Because we would be crossing the path it was taking, Valiant Lady would slow down and wait for it to pass. The seas might get a little rough, but the weather would be fine. Because of that, he warned us we might be late to Bimini, our last stop, but he’d keep us updated.

Impressively, we got a push notification from the Virgin Voyages app within a minute after the captain’s announcement; I wish other cruise lines would do this.

Razzle Dazzle for Dinner

For dinner, we had 7:30 reservations at Razzle Dazzle, which, from online feedback, seemed like the least popular and least understood restaurant onboard.

Originally, Razzle Dazzle focused on vegetarian and vegan dishes with a few “naughty” meat options. Now, the menu has evolved, with about half of it featuring meat. Despite this, the perception of it being primarily vegetarian persists, as I heard from my tablemates the previous night at Gunbae.

Razzle Dazzle offers a unique take on American comfort foods, with options like pork belly, ribeye steak, fried chicken, beet pierogi, and tuna tartare.

The restaurant is tucked away in a part of the ship you wouldn’t usually pass by. Upon arrival, the hostess seated us promptly in the back. Inspired by the camouflage of World War I ships, the decor features bold red and white stripes, which I found overwhelming.

Large communal tables fill the center of the restaurant, but you never sit directly next to strangers; they put two seats between parties. The restaurant was only about half full that evening, and we were given a table along the side wall.

Our waitress gave us our menus and introduced the “secret” menu item—a Pastrami Burger—which seemed more like a daily special. For a cocktail, I tried “A Pop of Attraction,” a tequila-based drink served in a plastic popcorn container and topped with caramel popcorn. It looked fun, but the flavor was unremarkable—I mostly tasted tequila.

Tip: Razzle Dazzle has the Red Bar, which you can visit without dining at the restaurant. It seems like a hidden gem, as few people knew about it.

I started with the pork belly, which was a bit of a letdown; it wasn’t really crispy or as seared as I’m used to. For entrees, the chicken and biscuit were very crunchy, but the breading didn’t have much flavor on its own. The biscuit was excellent, though, with flaky layers. I got the lamb, which I really enjoyed, and the polenta it came with was delicious.

Dessert was a miss for me. I got the “Brown Sugar Baked Pears” for dessert, and I wasn’t a fan. The pears were served cold and the pastry was crunchy on the edges and gummy in the middle—very unappealing.

Overall, aside for the lamb, Razzle Dazzle didn’t impress me. The decor felt like a miss, and the service was almost too efficient. The courses came out so quickly that the whole meal felt rushed and lasted just 45 minutes.

Note: Razzle Dazzle will be changing in the future. Scarlet Lady is currently undergoing a dry dock. During that time, the space’s decor is being toned down, the communal tables are being removed, and the night menu is changing to Asian-inspired dishes. If successful, it’s likely to roll out across the rest of the fleet.

Scarlet Night

You can say Scarlet Night is Virgin Voyages’ biggest party, but it’s so much more than that. All day, staff greet you with “Happy Scarlet Night,” almost like it’s New Year’s Eve, and the ship is abuzz with energy, although events don’t start until 6 PM.

Tip: Make sure you bring red because nearly everyone dresses up for the event. For men, this shirt on Amazon was the most popular—I counted at least 10 men wearing it.

Unlike some other cruise lines, where theme parties last for 30 minutes, this event lasts the whole evening with different activities happening all over the ship. It feels more like an art installation than an event, with different things happening and not everyone seeing the same thing. If you’ve ever seen or heard of “Sleep No More,” it seems to have a similar vibe.

Scarlet Night Wedding

We arrived at The Roundabout a little before 9 PM, which was when the program said “Scarlet Night” started. Everything I read said to be on Deck 6 around 9 PM for the kickoff.

Red lights washed over all the spaces, and giant inflatable octopus arms sprouted throughout The Roundabout. The area wasn’t jam-packed, but there was a good crowd. At 9 PM, music started, and The Happenings Cast came out and started dancing a choreographed dance on the wide stairs. The they danced to original songs about Scarlet Night for about 10 minutes.

I don’t understand why they thought this space was suitable for performances. No one can view everything at once, and there’s no clear sightline to see what’s happening. It’s such a poorly designed space for entertainment.

Then, two of the cast members came down to the ground level of The Roundabout and had a wedding ceremony where they involved the crowd. It was a bit hard to follow, and I’m not sure what was going on. After about 15 minutes, the wedding ended, and the crowd dispersed, unsure where to go.

The Octopus Garden: The Story of Scarlet Night

We headed to The Red Room for the 9:45 showing of “The Octopus Garden, The Story of Scarlet Night.” I figured maybe that would give us some context about what the event was. There was a line to enter as the doors didn’t open until exactly 9:45 because the performer was already on the stage/floor.

We filed in, and the performer, an Octopus Goddess of the sea, started talking to the crowd. It was some narrative about being left by a sailor she loved, but who’s also a murderer? She had a few songs she performed throughout her story, like “Moon River” and “Bad Romance.” Overall, it was a short 15-minute performance, and it didn’t help clear up much, but I thought we’d see more throughout the night to build on it.

Scarlet Night Smaller Events

We exited the theater and continued to walk around the ship. Most of the common areas were either red or dark. Inflatable octopus arms and fish were set up in different bars and venues across the main corridors on the lower levels. The different lighting and inflatables made it feel like we were exploring a completely new place.

People were walking around in all types of red outfits, chatting with each other and socializing. As we were walking near the Social Club, a performer walked by and whispered, “If I were you, I’d follow me this way,” and then a bunch of people followed her out to The Dock, the exterior promenade at the back of the ship.

The moon was high in the sky, and soft music was playing in the area. Glowing orbs that resembled the moon were set up throughout the space, giving an ethereal feel to the area. Several of the cast members did some dances with the glowing orbs. Watching it with the moon in the background was surreal. Then, just as quickly as it started, it ended.

We walked back inside, not knowing where to go next. At that point, The Grounds Club coffee shop was pitch dark, and they were having a glow light party, with actors doing dances with them. Again, it was there one moment and gone the next.

Honestly, I couldn’t explain what I witnessed for Scarlet Night, but it was a unique experience. If I had to give advice, it would be: Don’t think about it; just go wherever you see people going. I’m sure there’s some plot and some structure to what’s going on; it’s incredibly well executed by the hard-working staff on Valiant Lady, but I couldn’t grasp what it was. It’s more enjoyable when you stop trying to figure out what it is.

Scarlet Night – The Pool Party

The culmination of the Scarlet Night events is an energetic pool party (if it’s raining, it takes place in The Manor). The pool party started at 10:45 at the “Aquatic Club,” the main pool on Valiant Lady. As soon as we walked in, we were greeted by Tubbs, a 75-foot-tall inflatable octopus at the pool’s far end. The DJ was pumping the music as everyone poured onto the pool deck and the deck above, wearing their finest red outfits.

Tip: If you don’t want to get wet, stay about 10 feet away from the pool edges—that becomes a splash zone.

The Diva came out on the deck above and greeted everyone, and The Happenings Cast came out and took spots around the pool. They started dancing to a well-choreographed dance. At that point, I realized there were no video screens on the deck, so it was hard to get a comprehensive view of what was happening.

The dancing built up to the culmination, the big number, which was a dance version of the Scarlet Night song we heard earlier. As they danced in the water around the pool, they splashed water into the crowd. Then, at the end, they invited people into the pool to continue the party.

Quickly, a crowd jumped in the pool in their full red attire. Some just stood in the wading areas at the side; others jumped into the deep pool. The crowd’s energy on the pool deck was very high, with people dancing and singing, while on the deck above, people mostly sat on bar stools and watched. The party went on until midnight, at which point, the afterparty moved to The Manor.

Overall, Scarlet Night was enjoyable. It was a whole experience lasting the entire evening, not just one brief 30-minute theme party like other cruise lines do. Nearly everyone participated in wearing red, and the whole ship had such energy—even the hallways were turned red. I’m still not sure I get the whole story behind Scarlet Night, and that’s probably okay—it’s not something easily digestible; it’s an experience. The energy, the intrigue, the not-knowing what’s happening next. And with all the small things happening around the ship, you can have a completely different experience the next night. Overall, it was a total blast.

You Don’t Have To Party to Enjoy Scarlet Night

If the aforementioned party sounds like a complete nightmare to you, don’t worry—it’s 100% optional. While the main Scarlet Night events are happening, there are still plenty of other things to do. They had karaoke with The Diva; they had their regular band playing in The Dockhouse, the casino was in full swing, and the stores were open—it would just be like any other night on a cruise. So, if you’re an introvert or the idea of a loud party rubs you the wrong way, don’t dread Scarlet Night.

Pizza Place for Late-Night Munchies

It was a full day, so I didn’t make it until the end of the party, but before I went to bed, I grabbed some pizza from The Pizza Place. I expected it would be jam-packed with everyone partying, but there was only one person in front of me in line. I think it was a combination of people being upstairs at the party, and if they wanted food, they went to The Galley for munchies since it was right there; the Pizza Place is down on Deck 7, so it took more effort to get there. I ordered the pizza of the day—a meatball pie in a to-go box. Six minutes later, I had my pizza in hand and was heading back to the cabin to relax. It really hit the spot.

Day 3 Wrap Up

Overall, Day 3 was a lot of fun. From relaxing on a secluded beach to the energetic Scarlet Night, the day was filled with good times. I had heard a lot about Scarlet Night and was impressed with how well it was executed and how much everyone seemed to get into it. Tomorrow would be a sea day, so I looked forward to sleeping and relaxing.